BEADWORKING
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The colorful tiny beads seen so often strung or woven into medallions, belts, or earrings, or sewn on clothing are made of glass and have been used by Iroquois since the 1600s. These glass beads were originally made in Venice and Amsterdam and were among the items that European traders found were valuable to Native Americans. When trading for land, furs, or food, when giving gifts, or when negotiating in treaties, glass beads were one of the goods exchanged. In 1669 Father Bruyas, ministering to the Oneida, said, “Whoever knows how to repeat on Sunday all that is said during the week, has (given to them) a string of glass beads, or two little glass cylinders..." (Beauchamp 1905:389). As can be seen, beads were valued for many purposes.

 

Prior to the introduction of glass beads, use was made of clay, shell, bone, teeth, and stone for personal adornment. To decorate clothing and moccasins, Iroquois, attached porcupine quills and moose hair with sinew in intricate geometric designs. The colorful beads, however, gradually replaced the natural materials. The beads first traded were tubular or round, fairly large - from 1/2 to 1 and 1/2 inches long, and striped, solid colored, or patterned. In the latter part of the 1600s and into the 1700s and 1800s, beads became progressively smaller, some having diameters of 1/8 inch. While these large beads were being traded, a very small bead, known as a seed bead, was also available to the Iroquois. It is these beads that were used to ornament moccasins and clothing and later became popular when items were made for the tourist trade.

A variety of techniques and styles have been developed to sew with beads. Beads sewn on cloth or leather can rest flat against the surface or be bunched to create a raised effect. When beading flat against a surface, nearly every bead or every second or third bead is tacked down. In raised beading, either one strand of beads is placed flat against the surface and other strings of beads are placed over the first strand, or more beads are placed on the thread than can be accommodated in the space allotted. In both cases, no matter what technique is used, it is always important that the beading be tight. Beading sewn on cloth has been and is still used to ornament clothing. Women's skirts are richly embroidered with patterns that represent symbols derived from the Iroquois Creation Story such as the sky dome and celestial tree. Men's breechcloths, men's and women's leggings, collars and shawls are beaded, as are moccasins, with floral and leaf patterns. Triangular, diamond, and ladder patterns are incorporated with curvilinear and floral patterns to make a distinctive Iroquois bead pattern style.

 

Besides ornamenting clothing, beads decorated items that are called bead whimsies. These were sold regularly to tourists at such vacation spots as Saratoga Springs, Montreal, and Niagara Falls. Bead whimsies include cushions used to hold hatpins, whiskbroom and watch fob holders, birds, boxes, hanging canoes, and other wall ornaments. During the Victorian Era the beading was so elaborate that raised beading sometimes stood 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the surface, and bunched strings of beads cascaded down the cushions. These cushions are still produced by women at the Tuscarora and Kanawake Mohawk communities.

When beading medallions, barrettes, or belt buckles, the same technique as beading on cloth is used. Designs often feature feathers, stars, or one of the nine clan animals. For necklaces, lighter covers, or key chains, other techniques are used. By using one or two needles, beads are threaded together to form airy patterns. A popular pattern is the daisy chain stitch. Tiny daisies, a chevron pattern, or triangular pattern are just some of the designs created using this stitch. Another technique is called the peyote stitch. Beads are threaded in a circular spiral to form a never-ending pattern. Bead earrings incorporate porcupine quills using various stitches. The quills are strong like a long tubular bead. Looms are used to make belts, buckles, barrettes, and bead strips. The warp is strung with thread and the beads create the waft. Patterns when using a loom are usually geometric, but jagged floral designs can also be made.

 

Beading is a very slow and painstaking process. Only the best materials are used; therefore the beads are glass and the nylon or cloth thread is waxed to increase its strength. The uniformity of bead size is very important to a beader. Today, the best beads are said to come from Czechoslovakia. Italy, France, and Japan also produce beads. Beads can be opaque, transparent, translucent, or opalescent. A highly prized bead is a cut bead, which sparkles. Because cheap beadwork made overseas has been competing with Native American products, it is important to examine pieces carefully to note workmanship and quality of materials used.